Investing Hub
The accounts, the assets, the math — the way Mitchii actually explains it.
Personalize for your level
Beginner, Intermediate & Advanced rewrites are for account holders. Sign in to unlock.
The accounts (where your money lives)
The wrapper matters more than the funds inside it. Pick the right account first, then pick what to buy.
Think of each account as a different kind of envelope. Some envelopes save you taxes, some come from your job, some you open yourself. Here are the ones to actually care about.
401(k) / 403(b)
Through your job
Free money first. If your employer offers a match (e.g. 100% of your first 6%), contribute at LEAST enough to get the full match. Skipping it is leaving thousands on the table every year.
Roth IRA
You open it (Fidelity, Schwab, Vanguard)
$7,000/yr cap (2024, under 50). You pay tax now; everything inside grows tax-free, AND you can pull your contributions out anytime without penalty. Best account most beginners have never heard of.
Traditional IRA
Pre-tax, you open it
Same $7,000 cap. Deduction today, taxed at withdrawal in retirement. Good if you expect to be in a lower tax bracket later.
HSA (the secret weapon)
Only with a high-deductible health plan
Triple tax-free: pre-tax in, grows tax-free, tax-free out for medical. $4,150/yr (2024 self) / $8,300 family.
Taxable brokerage
No limits, no special tax treatment
No contribution cap, no withdrawal rules. You pay tax on dividends each year and capital gains when you sell. Use for goals 5+ years out that aren't retirement.
Emergency fund (required first)
High-yield savings account
3–6 months of expenses in a HYSA earning ~4–5% APY. This isn't investing — it's what stops you from selling investments at the worst possible time.
Educational only — never advice. Contribution limits update annually; numbers shown are 2024.
The building blocks (what you actually buy)
Inside any account, you choose assets. These are the categories.
| Type | What it is | Risk |
|---|---|---|
| Individual stocks | A share of one company. | High — single-company risk. |
| Bonds | You lend money; they pay you interest. | Low to moderate. Government < corporate < junk. |
| Mutual funds | A basket of stocks/bonds, priced once a day. | Matches what's inside. Often higher fees. |
| ETFs | Same idea as mutual funds — trade like a stock. | Matches what's inside. |
| Target-date funds | A single fund that auto-adjusts as you age. | Decreases over time. Set-and-forget. |
| REITs | Real estate, in stock form. | Moderate-high. Sensitive to interest rates. |
If you only remember one thing
Pick a target-date fund inside your 401(k) and a broad-market ETF like VTI inside your Roth IRA. That's it. You'll beat 80% of "active" portfolios in your lifetime.
Compound growth calculator
See what consistent contributions actually become. This is the cheat code.
Tip: leave the return slider around 7–8%. That matches the long-run stock market average after inflation — anything higher is optimistic.
Asset allocation calculator
A starting-point mix based on age and how much volatility you can stomach.
A target-date fund inside your 401(k) will do something similar automatically. This view just makes the logic visible.
Your first 5 moves
The shortest path from zero to investing. No jargon, no spreadsheets.
- 1Open a Roth IRAFidelity, Schwab, or Vanguard. Takes 10 minutes. No fees.
- 2Set up the 401(k) matchThrough your job. Contribute at least enough to get the full employer match — that's an instant 100% return.
- 3Pick a target-date fundInside both accounts. One fund, auto-adjusts as you age. Done.
- 4Automate $50–$500/moWhatever you can. Consistency beats amount. Set it and forget it.
- 5Don't watch the balance dailyMarkets dip. That's normal. The plan works because you don't touch it.